Tips for Imsfrane Cathedral, Zaouiat Ahansal, Taghia and Ait Bouguemez: Amazing roadtrip in the UNESCO geopark of Mgoun N°1 in Africa

Covering an estimated area of over 5,700 km², the UNESCO Global Geopark of M’Goun is the leading geopark in Morocco and Africa. During my journey, I will pass by the famous Imsfrane Cathedral, Zaouiat Ahansal, Taghia and finally the valley of Ait Bouguemez nicknamed "the happy valley". UNESCO M’goun National Park 📍Location […]

UNESCO M'goun National Park

📍Location

It is located in the middle of the chain of the central high atlas between Béni Mellal in the north and the ridge line of the lghil M’Goun in the south,
encompassing 15 municipalities:
Azilal, Demnate, Tilougite, Zaouait Ahansal, Tabant, Ait M’Hamed, Ait Taguella, Agoudi N’Lkheir, Ait Abbas, Ait Boulli, Ait Blal, Sidi Boulkhelf, Tifni, Anergui Boutferda

🔍 Geosites

The UNESCO Geopark of M'Goun is a protected territory which includes a certain number of geosites of exceptional interest, but also places of ecological, archaeological, historical and cultural values.

Among the main geosites we find:
-Geological panorama of Zaouiat Ahansal. - Imsfrane “Cathedral”.
-Dinosaur footprints in Ibaqualliwn. (Ait Bouguemez valley)
-Geological landscape in Bougal (Taghia) near Abachkou.
-Paleo-dam of Tizi-n-Tighza, entrance to the Ait Bouguemez valley.

-Greniers de falaise d’Aoujgal

Cathedral Imsfrane

📍Location: Tamga Imsfrane

15 kilometers from Tilouguite, between Ouaouizeght and Anergui, almost 80 km from Beni Mellal.
The imposing "Cathedral of Imsfrane" ⛰ of rocks dominates the site of Imi n'Waregue on the edge of Oued Ahensal at start of the UNESCO Geopark of M'Goun, the first geopark in Morocco and Africa.

🚌Imsfrane transport:

By car 🚘:
From Rabat to Imsfrane: 5h30 drive without counting the stops while passing through Beni Mellal –Ouaouizeght - Bine el Ouidane - Tilouguite.
And from all the departure points, Beni Mellal is generally the meeting point.

By public transport 🚎:
As already mentioned, Beni Mellal is the meeting point of almost all the departure points and there is no direct transport to Imsfrane.
🔸So from the city where you are take a direct bus to Beni Mellal.
🔸Beni Mellal - Ouaouizeght: Grand Rural Taxi at 37.5 dhs 💰 (25dhs in normal times except health crisis)
🔸Ouaouizeght - Tilouguite: Transit (transport in common rural) at 25dhs 💰.
Normally, they deposit as far as Imsfrane. Otherwise you will have a 5 hour walk to Oued Ahansal next to the old wood factory.

🚚Imsfrane Cathedral truck

Who says Imsfrane says his famous truck, which has become the symbol of the region as all tourists take their picture as a souvenir.

📍This iconic truck is located just behind an old lumber factory that was operational during the time of French colonization that you can visit elsewhere.
And in front you have a panoramic view of the Cathedral.

"It is said that it was these French people who called this mountain" "the Cathedral" since it looks like a cathedral dominating the region with its splendor!

📍Summit of Imsfrane Cathedral

Culminating at an altitude of 1,872 meters, Imsfrane Cathedral has a wall six hundred meters long.

🔍Imsfrane Cathedral, takes its name from its rock structure in the form of a church with a finial, a spire and a gable. A rock structure perfectly similar to the architectural structure of a medieval church.

🏞The place is distinguished by its Aleppo pines and its sumptuous river valleys which make it the destination par excellence for mountaineers and high-level hikers.
The site impresses by the size of its geological formations but also by the contrast of colors: the brown of the rocks, the green of the pines and the red earth.

🧗🏻‍♀️Once we reach the top of Imsfrane, a sense of accomplishment and euphoria overwhelms us. The apple has an incomparable taste (in the photo) 😆
Access to the summit is average for experienced hikers.

🤸‍♀️Activities: It is possible to go rafting on the Oued Ahansal river. There are also other easy hiking trails along the river in exuberantly beautiful nature.

📍Imsfrane Wadi Ahansal waterfall

The route of the hike is normally well marked. You will have to follow the Oued Ahansal river in SOUTH direction. On the road, it will be on your right. At one point you will have to turn right for the gorges. Do not turn straight ahead.

And this is where you’ll see a beautiful backdrop of our cousins the monkeys (no offense 😅) jumping from branch to branch in the middle of the forest near the river! I've been there twice and each time I meet them. They are also numerous and harmless (unlike the Ouzoud monkeys, for example, which are familiar with tourists).

🎉Just after this beautiful show, you will find the waterfalls of Oued Ahansal.

📣Nothing extraordinary like waterfalls, small waterfalls in the middle of the forest but the zenitude of the place is remarkable!

📍Imsfrane Wadi Ahansal Canyons

The route of the hike is normally well marked. You will have to follow the Oued Ahansal river in SOUTH direction. On the road, it will be on your right. At one point you will have to turn right for the gorges. And the waterfalls will be straight.

🔎Once you arrive, you will be taken to cross the Oueh Ahansal river to continue enjoying the beauty of the canyons.

⚠️ The water is freezing 🥶, but the resulting feeling of freshness is pleasant.

📣It is better to bring water shoes for crossing the river so as not to have pain with river pebbles.

🏩Accommodation in Imsfrane

Camping 🏕 :

A campsite is located at the foot of the old lumber factory. A large free space where campers meet on the banks of the Oued Ahansal river with a spectacular view opposite the Cathedral. You just have to come well equipped with the necessary equipment (tent, sleeping bag…) or in a caravan!

Gites 🏡 :

To my knowledge, there are two cottages on site.
• Cathedral stopover: is located at the foot of the Cathedral, 200 Dhs 💰 with half board.
TEL (0661-876401 / 0641-821964 )
• Auberge la Cathédrale: a little further on is this hostel at 200dhs 💰 with half board as well.

Warning ⚠️: no network or internet for the INWI operator.

Zaouiat Ahansal

I am very happy to present to you the most picturesque Berber village I have ever seen! Zaouiat Ahansal is a very pretty citadel perched at an altitude of 1700 m, immersed in the wild High Atlas and leaning against a barrier ocher cliffs dominating the tumultuous waters of Oued Ahansal.

🏚️Architecture of Zaouiat Ahansal:

The peculiarity of the village lies in its location and also the architecture of the fortified houses (tighermt) and their splendid adobe towers (Ksar). The village has several Ksars. A Ksar is a fortress built of adobe, it is always situated in a spectacular location, usually combining granaries and dwellings, in order to protect itself from attacks from nomadic tribes.

🤸‍♀️Activities in Zaouiat Ahansal:

-The main activity in Zaouiat Ahansal is hiking and climbing.
-The weekly market is every Monday.

✏️Etymology of Zaouiat Ahansal

A Zaouia is a sanctuary where a very pious man is buried. It can be recognized by its roof decorated with green ceramic. Ahansal with reference to Sidi Said Ahansal.

📜History of Zaouiat Ahansal

Zaouiat Ahansal was founded in the 13th century by itinerant Islamic scholar Sidi Said Ahansal, who according to local legend was instructed to establish a religious school wherever his cat hopped off his mule. This place is on an important crossroads between the central High Atlas and the plains of Marrakech frequented by the powerful nomads Aït Abdi and Aït Atta.

As a result, the region prospered materially and intellectually. Libraries, religious schools, houses of saints and highly decorative ighirmin (collective granaries) bear witness to this rich cultural heritage. Even today, a significant number of pilgrims continue to visit the region during the Islamic month of Shawwal, to celebrate the marabout buried in the green-roofed Qoubba (mausoleum).
Hence the name Zaouiat Ahansal.

📣The locals are Berbers and speak Berber (Amazigh).

📍Location of Zaouiat Ahansal :

Zaouiat Ahansal is a rural Moroccan commune in the province of Azilal, in the region of Tadla-Azilal.

🛣 Itinerary :

Where you come from, North or South you will surely pass by one of these cities:

Imsfrane -> Zaouiat Ahansal: 1h35, This is the path we made (💰 transit at 25dhs)
Beni Mellal -> Zaouiat Ahansal: 3h35
Azilal -> Zaouiat Ahansal: 1h50

🏨 Accomodation in Zaouiat Ahansal :

The village is becoming more and more known by tourists and the cottages are becoming more and more numerous.
We have chosen to stay at the last cottage in the direction of Taghia.
Gite of the “Amahdar” family. Excellent service . We have limited the impression that we are in family. Moreover, it is the members of the family who welcome us, who cook, ... friendly atmosphere guaranteed!
They have all types of rooms, those with a view are a little more expensive.

💵 The price is very reasonable: 50dhs per person per night 💰 (in normal Berber room), half-board 120 dhs 💰 (if memory serves) in any case you can call them and negotiate.

⛺️ At the bottom of the cottage, by the river, you have a splendid camping area for tents (space rental at 20dhs / tent 💰)

📣I give you the number of the owner's son who is also a superb tourist guide. I highly recommend it!
Mustapha: 0671703585

Taghia

Before presenting this village to you, I will never forget this little Berber girl who guided her donkey alone with accuracy, vigilance and wisdom!
I must admit, this is one of the most beautiful photos that I have never taken and which touched me enormously !!
I never tire of looking at her with a big smile on my face 😍!

📍Taghia village

This majestic small isolated village, a superb limestone circus, is the 4th largest climbing spot in the world for its cliffs over 800m high. But it remains unknown given its location in the middle of nowhere accessible only on foot. Total change of scenery! We find an authentic rhythm of life: virgin nature, adobe houses, Berber locals with their warmth and hospitality… all the ingredients are there to live an unforgettable adventure.

🛣 Itinerary :

From Zaouiat Ahansal, you go up the Ahansal wadi to the south. Take the path at the exit of Zaouiat Ahansal until you reach the village of Taghia, 2 hours' walk away.

⚠️Attention:
-Friendly children and people with reduced mobility do not! It is better to be content with a stay in Zaouiat Ahansal. The journey is long and rigid.
-The locals speak Berber! Not all understand Darija (Moroccan Arabic).

📣 Tips :

-Do not hesitate to buy sweets, cakes and gifts for the children that you will meet all along the road all smiling and welcoming!
-Do not hesitate to take a tea break with the locals in the village with one or more gifts in hand. They will be delighted to welcome you to their homes. Warmer than these Berbers there aren't, I can tell you!
So a homestay experience is one of the greatest gains of the trip.

🤸‍♂️Activities in Taghia :

It is a world famous place, not only for its very interesting climbing routes, but also for the beautiful landscapes. The village is the starting point for magnificent hikes on the plateaus and in the canyons and towards the climbing routes traced on the walls around the village.

Cet espace fabuleux et paradisiaque permet de profiter pleinement de maintes activités :

- Canyoning: An activity that I did for the first time and that I highly recommend! Very fun though, it is best to do it in a hot season. The ideal would be in the spring, especially when the water is freezing and the gorges are not sunny.
The price is 300 dhs for half a day. 600dhs the day 💰.
Contact: Mustapha 06 71 70 35 85 📞

- Berber crossing: it is said to be one of the most dangerous passages in the world. I will talk about it in detail in the next post.

-Climbing: The climbing routes are up to 500 meters in height.
The 3 main routes are, the Baraka route (680) to Oujdad (2695 meters), route of the route the axis of evil (550m) on the Jbel Tadrarate (2810 meters) and the Purple Rivers (550m) on the Taoujdad (2600 meters).

-The visit of the gorges of Taghia and waterfalls (Where possibly the canyoning activity is done)
-Water source of Oued Ahansal
-Hikes to the Taghia plateau.
-Mountaineering to the peaks of Taghia (approx. 3000m) such as the Timrazine summit (3300m).

📣 Note that Taghia is also a main point to discover the Moroccan High Atlas: Toubkal summit (4171m), climbing and canyoning in Imlil, hiking in the Ait Bouguemez valley, the M'goun summit, Imilchil, skiing in Oukaimden (Marrakech region) , hike in the Amesfrane cathedral, Anergy, hike to the Toudgha gorges, Dades, Todra.

Berber Passage of Taghia

Walk the spooky Berber trails of Taghia, Morocco, while pretending the bridge is not supported by sticks driven into the rock.

Please don't tell my mom! 😝

📍 Berber passage

Considered one of the most difficult passages in the world with HUASHAN CLIFFSIDE PLANK PATH in China and CAMINITO DEL REY in Spain.
The Berber passage was built at the end of 2009 by the inhabitants at the base to pass their herds of sheep and goats towards the other side of the mountain but after that it has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in the region to get a rush of adrenaline.

⚠️ If you are acrophobic or dizzy, don't do It! Better not to.

🧗Itinerary: it is a rather complicated route. You will cross narrow paths with steep steps, surrounded by huge walls. You will enter the gorges of Taghia whose high limestone cliffs gently tighten and offer a magnificent view of the river of Oued Ahansal at the bottom.

📣Do not hesitate to do what is called" SCREAM THERAPY "which is to say, have fun screaming to release stress, anger ... and let go! Plus it's super fun to listen to his echo in the middle of the canyons🤪

🏨 Accommodation in Taghia

Gites 🏡:

Before 2019, there were only two cottages :

-Gite Taoujdate or Gite Said which hosted twice in 2011 and 2016 the American climber Alex Honnold renowned for his full solo climbs. It is one of the favorite lodgings of climbers considering its location at the exit of the village towards the Sources. @climbingtaghia

-Gite Oujdad of the Rizki family where we stayed, clean, calm, comfortable and friendly atmosphere guaranteed <3. Youssef Rezki, its owner, has also been a guide since 1997 (the first guide in the valley). The Gite is located at the top of the village with a panoramic view.

From 2019, five other gites have been opened in Taghia:
-Gite Jamal, gite Amil, gite Ahansal, gite Atlas, gite Naityoussef

💰 Count between 100 and 150dhs per person in half-board. I find that the price is very reasonable especially when you take into account that all food and other provisions are made from Zaouiat Ahansal which is 2 hours ON FOOT !!

Camping 🏕 :

Personally, I know 3 areas where you can set up your tents :

-At the bottom of ISHAK's house, around 20 dhs / tent. Its number is: 0691952349.

➕Advantages:

His house is right next door and you can access the toilets, charge your phones and order homemade bread
-Just before Jamal's gite there is an extraordinary space surrounded by trees by the river for free seen that the land does not belong to anyone a priori.
- And finally towards the sources, one of the Rizki family offers this service.

Ait Bouguemez, the happy valley

🏞 La vallée heureuse d’Ait Bouguemez

Let me introduce you to the longest and vastest valley in Morocco: The happy valley of Ait Bouguemez which stretches its greenery over some thirty kilometers.
It has 27 villages of ancestral architecture using natural building materials such as clay, stone, wood, plaster… And has a population of 24,000 inhabitants.

✏️Etymology of Ait Bouguemez

Aït Bouguemez is the name of the valley and its inhabitants which means in the Amazigh (Berber) language "people of the milieu" for the fact that the valley is located in the heart of the mountains of the central High Atlas.
It is also long known as "the happy valley". This name was given to it by foreign visitors to the valley impressed by the hospitality of these always smiling Amazighs.

📍Location of Ait Bouguemez

The valley is located in the heart of the central high atlas in the province of Azilal at the western limit of the province of Ouarzazate. It enjoys an enormous plateau at 2000 meters above sea level somersaulted by the Mgoun massif overlooked on all sides by high peaks ⛰ such as the M'goun (4068 m), Azourki (3682 m), Wawgoulzat (3763 m) and the Rat (3800 m). It is known for its vast fields of apple trees.

📣Don't forget to withdraw cash and refuel before heading into the Ait Bouguemez valley!
The nearest petrol stations and bank counters are in Azilal and Demnate.
Buy apples. They are the best in the country!

📜History and traces of dinosaurs 🦖

Still a lake more than a million years ago (Lower Jurassic), the Aït Bouguemez valley was populated by impressive dinosaurs which left us their huge paw prints up to 60 cm in diameter. These traces can be admired all over the valley on limestone slabs.

📍The collective attic of Sidi Moussa

In the valley of Ait Bouguemez, at the top of the mountain and after 40min of walking, we find the attic of Sidi Moussa built in juniper wood and earth.

🔸This is where the famous Moroccan series Remanna and Bertal, home of Seht Lil, was filmed.

🔸It houses the tomb of the marabout Sidi Moussa, a saint revered for his healing gifts and his powers of interpretation of dreams.

🔸This sacred place also served as a collective granary to store and preserve crops.

🔶Don't hesitate to enter the attic of Sidi Moussa, it's free! Inside you will find lodges where the villagers kept their valuables and jewelry.

🔶At the top of the roof of this building, an exceptional view overlook the green valley of Ait Bouguemez and the snow-capped mountains of the park of Mgoun.

🏨 Accommodation in Ait Bouguemez

Kasbah Dar Itrane

Nestled in the hollow of the Ait Bouguemez valley in the Imelghes douar, Dar Itrane (house of the stars in Amazigh) is a real favorite, built in 1980 by a French resident in Morocco in the land with strict respect for architecture local. With its warm and cozy lounges, its patios inviting you to stroll, its terraces with breathtaking views of the Mgoun massif, this accommodation is an essential traditional luxury!

🤸‍♀️Dar Itrane is the ideal starting point for a hike to meet the inhabitants of the Bougmez valley, moments of sharing in all simplicity.

📚 A wooden library rich in books is at your disposal.

🧖‍♀️ A nice traditional Moroccan hammam is free.

🍽The restaurant is a great highlight! All the dishes were delicious and served with love. Chef Mohammed came to consult with us in person to take into consideration our culinary preferences before preparing each meal. Which was incredibly remarkable!

💰 The price is around 300dhs per person in half board. Strangely, we sell the bed instead of the bedroom.

📣 Do not book online, the price is considerably more expensive. Call, negotiate and reserve.
Manager number: 0661 20 63 30

♻️The Dar Itrane ecolodge operates according to strict rules for protecting the environment: selective sorting of waste, hot water drawn from solar energy, traditional materials (rammed earth) ...

🏅The Dar Itrane ecolodge has been nominated several times for its protection and development actions in Morocco.

📍The Attics of Aoujgal

🛣 Itinerary :

The most accessible road is the one going towards Imilchil (R317). I had visited these granaries on my way to Imilchil. You will find more info on this trip here.

The attics of Aoujgal

I present to you the largest collective cliff attics in Morocco: The attics of Aoujgal! 🤩

📅 A tribal memory of the Amazighs, which has always existed, long before the arrival of Islam (dated around 170 million years)

🖌 Attics are named differently depending on the region: Irherm (Irher man in the plural) in the Central Atlas, and Agadir (Igoudar or Iguidar in the plural) in the Anti-Atlas.

📍 The cliff granaries of Aoujgal are located south of Bourferda northwest of Imilchil (70km) in the magnificent province of Azilal. A region that alone concentrates 71 collective attics out of the 550 in Morocco 😱

📜These attics were a hiding place for food, wheat and treasures. This is a site steeped in history and referring to the way of life of the local Amazigh populations. They bear witness to the spirit of survival-together of our ancestors. They were an insurance for life in the event of famine.

🔎The Aoujgal attics are small dry stone and adobe buildings built on a steep cliff at an altitude of 1800m overlooking the Oued Attach and overlooking a large void.
They are built along a 400m long axis. meters high, access is via a 700 meter long wooden and stone staircase.

🪟 There, boxes are linked and overlapping, similar to bird niches when you look at them from afar. At the height of its exploitation, this granary of Aoujgal had some 370 boxes.

✏️These hollows are called Tihuna in Amazigh.
They are strongly ventilated by openings to guarantee the longevity of foodstuffs.

⛺️ The specificity of the attics in the Azilal region: they belong to semi-nomadic tribes!
These are tribes who spent their lives between the mountains and the plain. They descended to the plain after the arrival of the snow. That's why they built these Irhermans high up.

📞Contact of a local guide: Said +212 6 77 24 55 98

⚠️ access is dangerous. I do not recommend it. Please ask the authorities to take the necessary measures for the safety of tourists.

Bine el Ouidane

Ouzoud

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